05-18-09 – 10:15 a.m. - It’s always a sure sign that winter is finally over when the spinach appears at the Eger Bros. farm stand on Route 23/Route 9 in Greenport. The nutrient-rich dark green leaves are gently stuffed into plastic bags and set out on the flatbeds that form the Egers’ seasonal farm stand. Since there’s only spinach to sell, the stand is not staffed at this time of year. It works on the honor system. Customers put their money in a cash box and carry off their spinach. This year the spinach is selling for $2 a bag or three bags for $5—a little more than in years past, but still a great bargain.
There are so many terrific things you can do with fresh spinach—spinach salad, spinach quiche, spinach omelets, eggs Florentine, spinach pie. Steam it and put it on pizza or in quesadillas. Toss handfuls into the pasta pot seconds before the pasta is done. Then drain the pasta and the spinach together and add your favorite sauce. Sauté spinach with garlic and olive oil for an elegantly simple warm salad or side dish.
Last weekend saw the opening of two farmers markets in the county: the Stuyvesant Farmers Market on Friday, May 8, and the Hudson Farmers Market on Saturday, May 9. On opening day, flowers and plants were in abundance. At both markets, there were planters and hanging baskets of annuals. At the Stuyvesant market, since it was Mother’s Day weekend, Running Creek Farm was offering free pansies to kids, which they could put in a little pot to make a gift for mom. At the Hudson market, there was a variety of cut flowers, as well as a great selection of bedding plants.
But even in early May, there was what you expect from a farmers market: food. At the Stuyvesant Farmers Market, Warren Collins was debuting at the market with produce from her Wild Wood Farm—asparagus, salad greens, cilantro, and those beautiful pastel eggs laid by Ameraucana chickens. Marilyn Burch, the market manager, was selling some very delicious-looking apple tarts, and there was milk for sale from Stuyvesant’s own dairy, Gumaer Farm in Stuyvesant Falls.
At the Hudson Farmers Market, the choices for those seeking provisions for the week were even greater. There were eggs, mushrooms, milk, and organic meats. There was wine from the Hudson-Chatham Winery. The Red Barn offered a selection of main dish pies, and the Farm at Miller’s Crossing had baby arugula and ramps for sale, in addition to lots of plants.
This a great time of year for foodies. Months of an ever-changing variety of fresh local vegetables and fruits stretch before us. Meanwhile, here are a couple favorite ways to enjoy some of the produce that is available right now.
Asparagus and Eggs with Parmesan
This is a great, fast meal for one. Since you’re working with individual gratin dishes, it’s easy to make multiples if you’re serving two, three, or more.
6 to 8 asparagus spears (depending on thickness), trimmed and, if desired, peeled
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Freshly grated parmesan
2 large eggs
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Melt the butter in an individual gratin dish in the oven, being very careful not to let it brown.
Place the asparagus in the gratin dish, turning it to coat with butter, and let it roast in the oven until tender crisp.
Remove the gratin dish from the oven. Season asparagus with salt and pepper. Then sprinkle with freshly grated cheese.
Carefully break the eggs over the asparagus, keeping the yolks intact. Season with salt and pepper and return to the oven.
When the whites are set, sprinkle with additional grated cheese and continue cooking until eggs are cooked as desired.
This dish is best when the egg yolks are runny. I use local eggs and don’t worry too much about salmonella, but if you’re concerned, let the eggs cook until the yolks are firm.
Spaghetti with Ramps
Ramps are wild leeks that are available now at many farmers markets.
½ pound ramps
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound spaghetti
2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan
Wash ramps thoroughly and trim off the roots. If the outer skin on the bulbs is loose, slip it off.
Bring 6 quarts of salted water to a boil. Blanch ramps in boiling water for 2 to 3 seconds. Remove with tongs and place on a cutting board. Coarsely chop the ramps and put them in a blender with the olive oil.
Add spaghetti to the boiling water. After a few minutes, ladle out ½ cup pasta water and add it to the ramps and oil in blender. While pasta continues to cook, purée the ramps until smooth. Season with salt.
Cook pasta until al dente. Reserve about a cup of pasta water before draining the spaghetti in a colander.
Return pasta to pot. Over moderate heat, toss pasta with ramp purée and grated parmesan for 1 to 2 minutes, thinning sauce with a little reserved pasta water as needed.
