RECIPE : CRABCAKES

If you know someone coming in from the eastern shore—from Maryland to Maine—and can snare a pound of lump crabmeat, 'tis the season. Don't dare do anything to upstage the sublime salinity of the crab, which is front and center here. Potato Chips. Coleslaw. Lemon wedges. Muscadet. Chardonnay. Sancerre.

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What You'll Need: Large bowl Large non-stick skillet Small non-stick rubber spatula Disposable gloves 1 pound lump crabmeat, unbroken 4 tablespoons butter ½ tablespoon vegetable oil 2 tablespoons minced shallot or onion ½ cup best-quality bread crumbs (ciabatta) 2 eggs, beaten ½ tablespoon Old Bay seasoning* ½ cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon minced parsley 1/2 cup minced celery 1/2 teaspoon sea salt 1 cup flour

In a small skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter over low heat. Add the shallots or onion and bread crumbs. Sauté over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes until crumbs and shallots look lightly toasted and golden. Remove from heat and allow to cool thoroughly.

Beat 2 eggs in a large bowl, add Old Bay seasoning until thoroughly combined. Add cream, parsley, celery, and salt, stirring until thoroughly incorporated. Empty container of crab into the center of the bowl, and with a small rubber spatula, gently incorporate it into the egg mixture, taking care not to break up the lumps (scraping the sides of the bowl with the rubber spatula is a good way). Then add the breadcrumbs, carefully stirring until combined. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

Wearing disposable gloves, shape crab mixture into cakes, again taking care not to break up lumps. Place on wax paper. Put flour on a large plate. Just before cooking, carefully dust each crabcake in flour, gently shaking off excess.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter and 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil in large nonstick skillet. Heat until sizzling, swirling skillet as it heats. Brown crabcakes on one side for 3 or 4 minutes, making sure your heat is even. With small rubber spatula, turn crabcakes and brown the other side for 4 to 5 minutes more. Remove from heat and serve immediately.

* 1 teaspoon dried mustard, 1 teaspoon ground white pepper, and ½ teaspoon paprika may be substituted for Old Bay seasoning.